The travel account was
published in Dawn, The News, The Frontier Post and www.khyber.org in early and mid 2000’s.
Takhte Sulaiman, the highest peak of Sulaiman range, has for long, remained shrouded in myth and mystery. For the people, from Sherani hills and mountains and from vast plains of Damaan, Takhte Sulaiman embodies some kind of religious mystique, having associations with none other than the Biblical Prophet and king Solomon or Hazrat Sulaiman.
Before the age of internet, modern smart phones the beauty of Takht-e-Sulaiman, largely went unnoticed and unsung in wider Pakistan. But then with smart phones and sharing applications the idea of Takht-e-Sulaiman burst open all around us on the internet. Takht-e-Sulaiman is now getting serious press. Takht-e-Sulaiman was, in recent history, scaled mostly by people of the region as part of local religious, cultural tradition. The peak served as a shrine, with animal sacrifice as an essential feature. Peak’s presumed associations with Prophet Solomon or Sulaiman and the legend of flying carpet and his landing on Takhte sulaiman has remained part of local folklore and a widely believed story. To the plains of Damaan, the sulaiman range and twin peaks of Takhte sulaiman give wonderful, picturesque background. Indeed, Damaan wouldn’t have been the same without Takhte sulaiman. Countless generations of men and women have lived and died under the long shadows of Takhte sulaiman , new generations of men came into existence and then went out of existence at their fixed hours, while The Eternal Mountain of Sulaiman has remained unmoved, unaffected, standing in perfect grandeur and majestic repose since the beginning of time. Takhte Sulaiman, inspires awe and wonder in the hearts of men. It is indeed a holy mountain.
According to local tradition, Prophet Sulaiman, who held his dominion over djinns also, hurled down and imprisoned those mischievous djinns deep inside inside this mountains who refused his commands.There, these spirits are to dwell in eternal captivity, only respite coming in Safar, the second month of the Islamic calendar. Then these creatures, for some unknown reasons are unchained, who then prey upon ordinary people, subjecting them to their demonic influence. And then at the approach of evening hours as the shadows of Sulaiman mountains begin to lengthen over and envelope the vast plains of Damaan, people in Damaan hurry children home to keep them safe from such baneful influence of the djinns.
It needs to mentioned here that belief in djinns , evil eye, casting of spells, demonic possessions, evil influence of black magic is widespread in Draban, Musa Zai and Chodwan.
Stories associated with Takht-e-Sulaiman fascinated me since my childhood. And the temptation of climbing it was harder to resist when I had a mind sharpened for adventure by reading East & West, NWFP, BA level marvelous English essays book.
I, then, had this peculiar flair and liking for optics and I experimented making basic telescopes as a matter of hobby. With these telescopes I looked at the beauty of Takht-e-Sulaiman mountains with awe and wonder. Then, with my friend and relative Haroon Rasheed, currently an official of federal government, I made small trips to explore foothills of sulaiman mountain facing Draban. Later on, others joined us in these adventures.
At the height of 3,382 metres above sea level, Takhte Sulaiman is name of spectacular mountains which offer endless opportunities of trekking and climbing. A trip to the top of the Takht, however, is possible in summers only as the winter snow keeps it out of bound from November till March. Dera Ismail Khan region was visited by Mountstuart
Elphinstone, 1779-1859, around first decade of 1800’s. He was the first British Indian government who on reaching Draban wrote on Takhte Sulaiman and perhaps made an attempt to scale its peak. His account of his travels in our region can be seen in his book “An account of the kingdom of Caubul and its dependencies”. According to Edward Emmerson Oliver, author of “Across the Border: Or Pathan and Biloch” a British expedition was sent to Takht-e-Sulaiman to carry out survey of Takht in 1884, with the aid of the tribesmen .
In 1891 two British officers Major Maclvor and Captain A.H.McMahon reached either the shrine or the summit of the peak of the Takht-i-Suliman.
Likewise, Sir Alexander Burnes in around 1831, 1832 traveled in present day KP and Afghanistan in year and wrote down accounts of his travels in his book ” An Account of a Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus. Burnes is likely to have visited Dera Ismail Khan. Famous Muslim traveler Ibn Battuta also reported to have visited region of Takht-e-Sulaiman in 14th century. Last time the foreigners visited the mountain peak or region around it in second half of 1990’s in our company. They were Ivan Mannheim and Michael Bertrand, both were out friends and came to our area twice.
Takhte Sulaiman can be reached both through Zhob or Drazinda Dera Ismail Khan. But people should better climb the mountain up from Dera Ismail Khan , KP side. It is thrilling and travel from Raga Sir takes a traveler on roller coaster ride through the most beautiful and scenic parts of the mountains. Those who travel to Kikrai from Zhob and ascend the peak miss out on the main show. Public transport heading to Ragha Sar, the base of the Sulaiman range, can be booked from Draban Kalan.
Once Upon A Time In Draban
One fine summer day, we boarded a local bus and headed westwards — through the wide stony plain which is a part of Damaan that stretches for about 120 km north-south between D I Khan and D G Khan. This area is sandwiched between the Sulaiman mountains to the west and Indus river to the east.
The road that cuts through a ridge of low hills took us to Drazinda, the tehsil headquarter. After a brief stop there, the bus drove forward winding its way through the mountains; then turning west from the main D I Khan-Zhob road. It followed the right bank of a gorge to reach the top where the village of Raga Sar is situated. The high mountain chain that houses the village eventually leads to the highest peak of the Sulaiman range.
Who in 19th century visited Daraban Kalan
Stone and mud huts give Raga Sar a quaint antique look. It is inhabited by friendly and hospitable people of Sherani tribe. But the ominous presence of kalashnikoves slung over many shoulders bears testimony to a tradition that leaves few happy — blood feuds are common.
Our journey to Takhte Sulaiman began the next morning with necessary provisions and the valuable guidance of our friend and host Sultan Khan. Shortly after braving the strenuous narrow track, along a stream and over small boulders and pointed stones outlining the mountains on either side, we found ourselves in an open area with magnificent mountains all around. The four-hour track from Raga Sar came to an abrupt end here.
The next stage was to get to a hilltop village of Tora Tisha. And there we reached after half a day of strenuous trekking. The mosque in Tora Tisha was an ideal place for us to rest and relax, before embarking on yet another demanding trek across a small wooden bridge built over a narrow gorge. Deep down water gushed forth at tremendous speed. We proceeded further to ascend a sheer rock wall.
The trek finally ended. Another region lay open before us with a peculiar climatic condition and flora and fauna of its own. Mighty Sulaiman mountains covered with green forest afforded a very good view from the close quarters. We were supposed to make our way through it before dark to complete the first leg of our journey. A smooth climb over a mountain nearby led us straight into those pine forests.
The lush green landscape left us spellbound. It was a place of outstanding beauty. ChilghozaChilghoza and Nashtar trees could be seen all over the place. A smooth and straight track led us to a village called Poonga. Here ended our journey for the day.
Poonga spills down the mountainside. It offers a panoramic view of the gorgeous green mountains covered here and there with patches of flowers. A distinct silence we usually attach to high mountains could be felt and enjoyed. The warm sunshine added yet another charm to the place.
Next morning, we headed to the north of the village on a long and hard uphill track. We continued with the hope that the way would ease out along the flank of the mountain. That it did, and to our sheer pleasure was lined with the most amazing growth of wild flowers.
The view on the other side was simply breathtaking: A vast landscape characterised by lush green pastures and dense Chilghoza forest; a simple and serene village; idyllic peace and harmony; another mountain range at the back of the village and the view of its summit all featuring prominently. We decided to take a detour from the main track and go down into the valley where the scene was absolutely enchanting — with a dazzling array of wild flowers and pine trees.
We, however, took to the main track again and after an overnight stay in a village, next morning we took a path to the right, which led steeply to the peak.
In sheer contrast to the area around it, the top is a victim of intense deforestation. It has a camel route for the transportation of timber to Zhob. The top would have boasted plenty of pine trees once but today it presents a somewhat desolate look.
A room built in stone awaited our us at the top. It was for those wanting to stay overnight. Inside the room it was pitch dark but conditions outside were extremely cold. A natural water pool was there to serve all visitors.
There Qaisa Abdul Rasheed is said to be buried under a shady tree. Locals believe him to be an ancestor of the Pakhtoons. A small clean place near the end of the mountain is used as a mosque and this place also marks the point where Sulaiman, the prophet, would land.
A few stones are firmly placed at the edge of the mountain so as to serve as stairs for people wanting to go down about 10 feet to the slab — said to be the Takht. There is barely enough space for a man to stand or sit on the Takht.
From the top we enjoyed a From the top we enjoyed a panoramic view all around. To the north was Waziristan, the land of blue and green-eyed Masoods and to the west was a chain of mountains all steeped in silence. Absolute bliss!
Alexandria 